ML Assessment

I have been out with the ML Assessment team again today whilst friend Huw took the trainees out on Moel Siabod. It was security on steep ground day today and the boys had some more harsh weather with high winds and heavy rain giving another good testing day! 

ML Assessment & Training

Its a pretty busy week for me this week as I have an ML Assessment and Training course running from Capel Curig. Today I have been out with Matt, Declan and Mark for the first day of their assessment is some pretty awful weather! We spent the day focusing on navigation, the environment and leadership skills - battling 60mph winds and driving rain. A great test for the boys and our waterproofs! 

ML Training

I have been joined for the next 6 days by Malcolm, Chris, Kris, Fred and Ben for a Mountain Leader Training course here in Snowdonia. We have had a lovely first day with a crisp frosty start, a light dusting of snow on the tops and some beautiful sunshine. We spent the day on the Crimpiau which gave some lovely views across the rest of the Park.  

Video from Nepal 2012

Nepal Trip Report 2012

I have just got back from a great 3 weeks in Nepal. I took two teams out with the assistance of friends and fellow instructors Paul & Dave. In total I had 25 people to look after including the porters and Sherpas we employed and I am pleased to say we all had a safe and enjoyable trip.

On all of my expeditions I draw up a schedule that allows lots of room for rest and acclimatisation and combine this with small teams and a higher than average number of instructors to provide the best possible chance for everyone to achieve their aim in safety and comfort.

For this trip I had 5 clients going to Everest Base Camp (EBC) and 5 climbing Island Peak via Everest Base Camp. (There were originally 6 in each team but I had clients pull out of each team on the day of departure).

We all met up in Kathmandu and managed to fly out to Lukla early the next morning on one of the first flights of the day to start our trek. We enjoyed stunning weather with blue skies and sunshine throughout and over the first week and a half we all trekked into EBC together. This year EBC is situated at about 5350m and we also made the most of the opportunity to climb Kala Patthar (5550m) which gave an impressive high point for the whole of the EBC team who then trekked back to Lukla under the guidance of Paul.

The Island Peak team were lead by Dave and I round to base camp, with a couple of chill out days along the way before our summit attempt. We made the decision to climb the mountain from base camp (5100m) and avoid a night at high camp (5600m) and this worked well for us. We had a 1:30am breakfast and left camp by 2:00am. The route is initially a zig zagging path up steep scree but soon gains interest through a gully section giving some nice grade 1 scrambling in the dark. Our plan was to reach the glacier with the sunshine and put crampons on as the new day dawned. Sure enough the plan came together and we moved together roped up across the glacier towards the fixed ropes that allow progress up a steep 100m snow slope to the summit ridge.

The fixed ropes looked intimidating from below but the jumar training we had put in along the trek served us well and each team member maintained a steady rhythm to pull onto the brilliantly exposed summit ridge in their own time. We summited between 8:30 and 9:00am and Dave and I took control of the abseil station to make sure each team member negotiated the fixed ropes in return with the same ease they had in descent. A quick hop and skip back across the glacier and we were soon returning down the scrambling ground we had ascended in the dark that morning. After a brief rest at base camp we descended to the nearest village to celebrate a 15 hour summit day with another 100% success rate.

After a steady trek out and another smooth flight from Lukla we enjoyed a couple of days in Kathmandu before heading home from a great trip. Many thanks to all who shared it!

100% Success to Everest Base Camp and Island Peak

I am sat in sunny Kathmandu this morning after the usual exciting flight from Lukla. We have had a great 3 weeks in the high mountains with two teams heading to Everest Base Camp and one team heading onto Island Peak. We had a 100% success rate on both trips and photos and a full report will follow next week!

Off to Nepal

I am away now until the 12th November in Nepal. I have a couple of teams heading out to Everest Base Camp and Kala Patar, with one team continuing to Island Peak. I am looking forward to returning to the Himalaya after our trip to Mera Peak two years ago. I have packed, repacked and packed again so one more pack and I will be off!

I won't have access to emails or phone calls whilst I am away so I apologise for the inevitable delays in getting back to you, I look forward to sharing the photos when I get back.

ML Preparation

I have been out with Matt today who is on my instructor mentor scheme and is preparing for his forthcoming ML Assessment. We headed on a journey into Cwm Idwal and then Cwm Bochclwyd looking security on steep ground and ropework within the ML syllabus. It was damp this morning but brightened up nicely this afternoon. 

Autumn Colours

I have been out with Simon today who is on my instructor mentor scheme and preparing for his ML assessment. We wanted a day looking at navigation and steep ground and headed up onto the Glyderau from Nant Peris. We enjoyed some lovely light as well as some great terrain to push Simon a bit. A lovely day out. 

Another big boot big route.

Shae and I headed onto Tryfan today and climbed Grooved Arete (HV Diff). We were hoping the early morning mist would burn off but despite some promise we were in the cloud all day which meant the rock was a little greasy - a good effort by Shae in big boots on only his 3rd day of climbing. 

Amphitheatre Buttress

Shae and I wanted a big boot, big mountain route and so headed for Amphitheatre Buttress, often quoted as the biggest multi pitch route in Snowdonia. The route is a wonderful V Diff in a remote mountain setting and we enjoyed total tranquility today. There was no wind, hazy sunshine and that lovely scent of autumn in the air. 

Climbing in the sunshine

I have been joined for a couple of days by Shae who has previously done some scrambling with me and fancied a bit of rock climbing. We enjoyed some lovely hazy sunshine on Anglesey today and climbed a variety of one and two pitch routes from V Diff to Severe. We had the place almost to ourselves and it was beautiful. 

Video from last week on Grande Jorasses

Here is a short collection of film and photos from last weeks route on the North Face of the Grande Jorasses:

North Face of the Grande Jorasses

I have had a quick hit trip to the Alps this week with my friend Alec. We flew out last Saturday and spent a couple of days walking slowly upto the foot of the North Face of the Grande Jorasses. Plans were temporarily halted by some reasonable quantities of snow and so we enjoyed Sunday night in the remote and wild Leschaux Hut. The following day we moved upto the glacier where we pitched our small bivvy tent at the foot of the face. This slow approach helped the acclimatisation but probably not enough!

An alpine start on Tuesday saw us weaving through the complex crevasses in the dark and picking our way to the foot of the face. We had our eye on a couple of routes but the conditions made the choice for us and we climbed the Petit Macintyre. (TD). This route is 600m long and is entirely on snow and ice, getting progressively harder as you gain height - and get more knackered!

We had waded through deep snow to get to the route and moved together on the easier ground at the start, enjoying nice neve that gave first time placements - unfortunately this was not to last! After about 100m the ice got harder and harder, by the top we were climbing steep glacier ice that was bullet hard. Our calves were screaming and lungs heaving!

We abseiled back down the route using V Threads and returned to the tent after a 16 hour day, just before it got dark.

Unfortunately the Montenvers train was not running as we descended to Chamonix so we had a long walk back to town where we enjoyed a cold beer or two!