Busy times

July is always a busy month and this year is no exception.Last week I spent Thursday and Friday with Valerie & Pete on a Learn to Lead course in Snowdonia. We had a mixture of rain and showers but still managed to get them both leading by the end of the two days.
The weekend was spent on a Hill Skills course with Gerry, Joanna, Susan and Anja which was a lot of fun in good weather. I managed some evening cragging on the Saturday with a friend of mine, Bryn, in the slate quarries.
Monday and Tuesday were spent at Symonds Yat and today I have been putting my new brochures into envelopes for posting. If you would like a copy visit http://www.expeditionguide.com/

Trip Report - Rock Climbing in Lofoten June 2007

A few years ago I bought a Colin Prior poster entitled “Midnight Sun”. It showed steep sided granite mountains bathed in sunlight – at midnight! The small text at the bottom said that it was taken in the Lofoten Islands, Norway. I had never heard of them but decided I had to go.

Having talked about it often enough I decided 2007 was the year. The guidebook recommended June as being a warm, dry month (relatively speaking) and so some willing friends were found to enjoy a climbing trip in 24 hour daylight 150 miles north of the Arctic circle off the West coast of Norway. The photos that I had seen showed beautiful granite mountains rising dramatically out of the sea, long multi pitch rock climbs, scrambling along knife edge ridges and golden sandy beaches.

I put the time in my diary and booked flights to Oslo. Folks that had been before were divided on the best way to get their but we decided to drive from Oslo in a hire car. This was the cheapest option and flights would have been spread over 2 days so in theory would not take any longer than flying.

Car hire desks are always a nightmare inevitably having long queues of people moaning in several different languages and hassled staff remarkably similar to the Little Britain travel agent. Oslos Budget desk was refreshingly different and we were greeted with friendly laughter when 4 blokes with excess luggage arrived to collect the budget Suzuki hire car. 4 beers saw an upgrade to a Nissan Almera which meant that climbing ropes did not have to be used to secure bags to the roof of the car after all.

We left Oslo at lunchtime to catch the ferry from Bodo, about 1500km away, by 3:00PM the next day. Some swift driving on roads that we were surprised to find had absolutely no motorway or dual carriageway and very little sleep meant that we made it with a couple of hours to spare.

I had unwittingly booked us onto a Cruise ship across to Lofoten which doubles as an expensive car ferry. This costs about £50 each more than the humble ferry but did mean that we enjoyed a fine 3 course meal in the ships dining room! The German couple that I was sat with over dinner, we all got split up to minimise impact I think, were celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary and I like to think that my t shirt and trainers helped them relax a little in their fine dinner outfits.

We arrived on Lofoten to blue skies and sunshine, the last week had seen heady temperatures of 20c and 24 hour sunshine. We found a free campsite at Kalle, about 20 minutes drive from Svolvaer towards Henningsvaer. The campsite offered water and a compost toilet as well as a sandy beach and stunning views that lived up to the photos that had inspired me. Our backdrop was the imposing summit of Vagakallen (943m) which has no easy route to the summit and some of the best medium grade Alpine rock routes on the Island. My tent door looked out onto a sparkling ocean across an almost tropical beach and there was granite bouldering all around us.

Monday morning brought heavy rain so we spent the day exploring the local area. Henningsvaer is the centre of climbing on Lofoten. There is a climbing school and café with a new routes book and small gear shop. They have a plentiful supply of the guidebook if you could not get one in the UK – “Climbing in the Magic Islands” by Ed Webster. Food shopping was done at a CO-OP in Svolvaer and as a general rule most things were twice the price of the UK except booze, which was about four times the price. We used our duty free allowance at the airport to buy two crates of beer at near UK prices that lasted us the first wet day.

We then had 3 beautiful sunny days and enjoyed some fine climbing on perfect granite. Our campsite was a 10 minute walk from the sea cliffs of Paradise. This area gets a mention in the guidebook but local climbers want to keep the routes un-recorded to maintain a spirit of adventure. You just turn up spot a line and climb it! We did routes from about VS 4b through to E2 5c. They were all single pitch and mainly crack climbing, some on the sea cliffs and some slightly set back from the sea. None were tidal and all could be walked into rather than needing an abseil. We also found a route at the campsite that Rockfax gave E1 5c and proved to be a brutal fist jam up a curving crack.

Me climbing at Paradise.

Paradise gives a good introduction to the style of climbing and is easy to get to which is why we chose it for a first day. With hindsight I would recommend jumping straight onto the longer mountain routes that the Island is famous for if the rock is dry and the weather good. It soon changes as we were to find out! Save Paradise for evening cragging or easy days resting.

We spent a day around the Heningsvaer area and climbed Gandalf, Norwegian grade 5, (about VS4c) a 3 pitch crack and face climb that climbs the right hand side of the cliff known as Gandalfveggen. The first pitch is the crux and is very typical of the climbing that we did on the Island. The route involves laybacking and jamming up a variety of different sized cracks from finger cracks to full hand jams. The second belay is quite small but there is good gear throughout. That afternoon we managed a swim in the sea – not bad for the Arctic!

The next day saw us heading for the Goat. This is a pinnacle of rock that sits above the town of Svolvaer and is in all the tourist brochures and on the front cover of the guidebook. We were expecting something good! We chose the 1910 route, which is 3 pitches and graded at HS 4a. It was very cold and windy and we topped out in heavy snow. Recent rockfall meant that the route was harder, probably about VS4c. The start of the second pitch was on chossy rock that was loose and horrible but does give a fantastically exposed traverse out over a big drop. There is a bolted abseil descent and we were glad to get back down and thaw the hands and feet. Hot aches in June! In good weather the route Forsida looks good with 5 pitches at about HVS 5a.

On Thursday we headed back to Heningsvaer and climbed Applecake Arete, a 2 pitch HVS 5a, Light & Shadow another 2 pitch route at the same grade and Piano Handlers Route, a 4 pitch Hard Severe. The latter route is described as being an extremely poular beginners outing and it was often teeming with people from the nearby climbing school. We climbed it late in the evening and had the route to ourselves and it was very enjoyable. All of the climbs are trad and the climbing tends to be crack climbing with lots of smearing for feet. Consequently the climbs we did in the rain felt nails! If you want to train for a trip then get on some Peak grit and practise jamming, if you are a lightweight like me then practise laybacking as well! All of these climbs were roadside and had good gear. Cams are really useful, take a full set and double up on the mid sizes. We managed to place number 4 cams on most routes upto E2.

The rest of the 2 week trip was wet. I learnt how to play Stop the Bus & Nomination Whist, dreamed of owning a camper van, moaned about the price of beer and sat in the climbers café – a lot. I also managed to squeeze in a day climbing Vagakallen despite the guidebook telling me in CAPITAL LETTERS – DO NOT ATTEMPT THE CLIMB IN BAD WEATHER. The easiest route was a grade 2 scramble and the others were not keen on a day in the rain so I went solo and had the whole mountain to myself all day. The route finding was a lot easier than the guidebook suggests and the difficulties would not be an issue to anyone happy on Grade 2 scrambles in the UK. The first ascent team went from the sea near Kalle so I decided to try and find a way back down that way. I descended to about 100 m above sea level to find steep cliffs dropping into the sea, which resulted in hacking back up hill Indiana Jones style through trees and bushes to get back to a col at 550m. I was knackered by the time I did get back but had not seen another soul all day and barely seen a path. Old school!

Saturday and Sunday night were spent out on the town. The bowling and the swimming pool were both closed at the weekends so it was off to the cinema. The combination of a dark room that was warm and dry seemed the ultimate in luxury so we blew the budget and saw films both nights!

We also managed to sneak in some more climbs on Gandalfveggan, all 3 pitch routes from VS to HVS between showers and sometimes climbing in the rain.

On our last day I managed to persuade the others that the heavy rain was only a bit of sea mist that would soon lift and we walked into Only Blueberries on Pillaren. This was one heck of walk in, hacking though dense trees up hill in the rain. Needless to say the sea mist did not lift and we did not fancy slab climbing in the rain but the route looked great and I would recommend it to anyone on a dry day – 6 pitches at about VS on a friendly angled slab.

On the journey home we caught the car ferry which goes from Svolvaer to Skutvik, a couple of hours drive North of Bodo but much cheaper than the cruise ship at about £10 each. 18 hours of driving saw us in Oslo where we stayed with friends of Rich in a luxury Penthouse apartment in the city centre. The contrast was incredible. We had gone from cooking over an open fire on the beach without washing for a fortnight to luxury city centre living. We enjoyed a fantastic meal and then 3 minutes walk took us to an open air concert with Mel C and Natasha Beddingfield amongst the line up. We survived a minor altercation with the law for drinking and dancing in the streets and flew home the following day.

I had high expectations and the island did not disappoint. In all we managed 6 days out on the hill, which is not bad in a 2-week expedition rock climbing in the Arctic. At times the weather was frustrating but if you go expecting to spend a lot of time waiting then you will be fine. We hoped to climb at night if it was wet during the day but unfortunately it stayed wet at night too.

I will definitely go back but would look at loading a car with food and booze and catching the ferry from Hull to Bergen and then driving from their. You can hop aboard the cruise ship at Trondheim and that would limit the driving.

Before I went I emailed a friend of mine, Twid Turner, who had put a new route on Vagakellen with his partner Louise a couple of years ago. I asked him for advice and ideas and his response was “take plenty of booze”. I should have listened!

You can view my photos at http://www.expeditionguide.com/gallery

Off to Norway

I am heading off to the Lofoten Islands in Norway tomorrow for 2 weeks climbing with friends. I have not been before but have long admired the sheer granite mountains that rise spectacularly out of the sea so fingers crossed for some good weather - I am told it can be Scottish!

I will be out of contact until 24th June.

Home again

I am back home again now. Friday was spent sea cliff climbing at Elgol on Skye - a beautiful venue in equally good weather. Below are some photos of the week.

Hoorah for sunshine

After a couple of wet days it was nice to see the sun again today. Tuesday was spent at the seacliffs at Flodigarry whilst yesterday we did Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean in constant rain.

This morning the clouds were low as we left Glen Brittle but they lifted and the sun came out as the day progressed. We went into Coirie Ghrunda and went up Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor and then traversed below Sgurr Alasdairs screes to the top of the Sgumain stone shute. On the way down we took Collies route to the Cioch.

A good day!

Back on SKye

I am back on the Isle of Skye again. I have been every year since I was 17 and try and spend at least 2 weeks here every May. This year work and family committments have meant that the 2 weeks have been split - which means lots of driving!

Today we have been lucky with good weather in spite of a poorish forecast. The rain held off all day and it has not been too blustery.

We did the Clach Glas traverse onto Blaven, enjoying fine views across Skye, Torridon, the Outer Hebrides and even across to Ben Nevis.

Photos will follwo next week as I have forgotten my camera lead!

Climbing all week

It has been a nice week of sunshine and rock climbing. On Tuesday I was with Tony and Robert at Symonds Yat and we had a very enjoyable day culminating in a sun bathe on the top of the Long Stone Pinnacle.

Wednesday and Thursday were spent in Snowdonia on an intro to climbing course with Jo, Vicky and Jess and we had 2 beautiful days of sunshine. We went to Holyhead Mountain on Wednesday and climbed Pigeon Hole Crack, Wandering Primrose and Black Owen. On Thursday we went to Llangollen and at the Trevor Area for the day.

The Misty Isle

The Isle of Skye lived up to its reputation last week giving us a healthy dose of Scottish weather! I was joined by Alan and Gabby on a Skye Scrambling week from Monday to Friday.

Monday saw a dry day with some sunshine and we headed up Sgurr a Mhadaidh, Greadaidh, Thormaid and Banachdich.

Tuesday was the best day of the week with some beautiful sunshine and no wind so we made the most of it. We headed up the Sgumain stone shute to summit Sgurr Sgumain, Sgurr Alasdair, Thearlaich, Mhic Choinnich and then finished on the summit of the Inaccessible Pinnacle. An 11 hour day taking in the best of Skye.

Wednesday was drizzly all day with no visibility but we enjoyed Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir with Gabby and Alan leading the latter.

Thursday saw a bright morning followed by strong winds and rain so we headed up to Window Buttress and managed to get some rock climbing in before the bad weather arrived. Friday was a wash out with heavy rain and gale force winds so we headed to the coast for some sea side coasteering!

All in all a good week.

Intro to Scrambling

I spent the last two days in North Wales with Jo & Mark on an intro to scrambling course. It was pretty windy and we had some heavy showers, a real change from April!

We went up Seniors Ridge and down the Gribin (see photo) on bank holiday Monday and hardly saw another soul. The only people we saw were from a distance in Cwm Idwal and again on the tops of the Glyders.

Yesterday we went up Little and North Gullies on Tryfan which were nicely sheltered from a strong Westerly wind. Again we did not see another soul until we reached the summit.
A great couple of days in good company.

Last week was spent with Rachel and Simon on a 5 day learn to lead course in Snowdonia. Simon had done a little bit of leading before and progressed through to leading VS4c at the end of the week. Rachel had not lead at all before and progressed to leading Severe. The photo shows here making the exposed step onto the arete of Scratch at Tremadog - a 4 pitch classic Severe. Well done both!

The weekend was spent with Tom and Gareth on an intro to climbing course. We spent a sunny Saturday at Holyhead Mountain and then climbed Ordinary Route on the Slabs on Sunday. Best wishes to Toms daughter who went into labour on Sunday morning!

In Wales

I am working in Snowdonia at the moment. The good weather has come to an end this afternoon with heavy rain set for the next couple of days. Friday and Saturday were spent with Bill and Andy. We climbed Crackstone Rib, Skylon and Dives/Better Things on Friday and then Tennis Shoe & the firts two pitches of Ordinary Route on the slabs on Saturday. I climbed Cenotaph Corner on Friday night with a friend of mine, Pete.
This morning was spent at Tremadog on Striptease and Christmas Curry.

Wow what weather

Another beautiful week of sunshine. I have been working from home most of the week and have managed some cragging in the sunshine as well as playing in the garden with the kids. On Thursday afternoon I joined up with Simon and went to Shorncliffe in the Wye Valley. Not a sould was about and the limestone reminded me of the sort you find in Spain - coarse and weathered - not the usual Symonds Yat polish at all! We did 3 routes but I can only remember the names of two of them - All for One and The Luaghing Cavaliers. The latter is a 3 star HVS 5b and was wonderful - one of my favourite routes in the valley.

Friday night was spent up at Bishops Cleeve and then Saturday afternoon Alec and I climbed White Knight, a 2 pitch HVS 5a, that was very sparse for protection and got me sweating! We then did an "Alec" route that was not in the guidebook but went at about VS4c over the roof of a cave - I will say no more!

Rob

Spring has sprung

I spent last week working for Hereford & Worcester Army cadets. They were a great bunch and enjoyed a week of climbing, caving, canoeing and walking in the Brecon Beacons. Here is a photo of some of them on the top pf Pen Y Fan last Tuesday.

After work on Friday I headed to Windcliffe with a friend and we spent a very pleasant couple of hours climbing on warm limestone - we could easily have been in Spain.

We headed up to North Wales on Saturday morning and left the crowds behind by doing some good mountain routes, the best of which was Grey Slabs Arete, above and right of the Idwal Slabs, which goes at HVS 5a and is on wonderful rock.

I joined up with another friend, Andy, on Sunday and we headed into the Llanberis Pass. We did Diagonal on Dinas Mot and then Skylon on Carreg Wasted.

Sunny Sunday

Yesterday was a beautiful day. I was with friends climbing at the Roaches in the Peak District. Andy and I climbed The Sloth, Damascus Crack with the 4c finish, Sauls Crack, Left Hand Route and Right Hand Route. Hands are a little sore this morning!

I am working at Symonds Yat and on the Brecon Beacons all week this week with a group of Army cadets.

Rob

Photos from last week

Paddy leading off on the second pitch.

Paddy topping out on the first pitch of Red Gully.

Sneachda from the roadside. As you can see there is not much snow about!

Ice!

Yesterday was naff. It was wet, warm and everything was dripping so we didn't get anything done other than an afternoon at Scott Muirs new wall in Aviemore. I can recommend it as a wet weather alternative, there are lots of routes at lots of grades to suit all abilities.

Today was glorious and made the drive worthwhile. Pictures will go up on Monday but we had blue skies, cold weather and sunshine. Paddy and I climbed Red Gully in Sneachda II/III which was thin but doable and enjoyable! Belays were great and the ice was complete with the first pitch meriting the III. Paddy had to get off early so we had an enjoyable stroll down in the sunshine and an early finish.

Looking warm again tomorrow so off home!

Rob

Back in Scotland

I spent last weekend and the latter part of last week up in North Wales doing a bit of rock climbing in the rain.

I am now in Scotland again for a few days winter climbing. I am over on the East Coast and there is fresh snow down to the roads but the hills still look a little bare. Category 4 avalanche report is predicted because of a rise in temperatures and the heavy winds we have had over the last few days. Oh well, we'll just have to go and see!

Rob

Winter Skills

Last week was spent running a winter skills course with Ben, Simon and Claire. We had excellent weather on Monday with bright blue skies, sunshine and no wind. We headed into the White Corries and spent the day getting used to axe and crampons, looking at snow pit analysis and avalanche avoidance and also managed to get a summit bagged.

On Tuesday we went up Buichaille Etive Beag in heavy snow and with little visibilty. It was an excellent day for practicing navigation and getting used to operating in more typical Scottish weather conditions.

Wednesday saw us head up to Creag Meghaidh in more strong winds and heavy rain and snow. We gained the snowline below the Window and managed to seek shelter from the winds whilst practising buried axe belays and self arrest.

On Thursday we used the Nevis Range gondola to gain some uplift before walking over Aonach Mor and down to the col below Aonach Beag. We spent 4 hours building a shovel up snow shelter and spent the night in it. An early start on Friday saw us on the summit of Aonach Beag by 8:00am and then back to the cottage in Fort William for lunch.

On Saturday I went climbing with my Dad and we climbed Sron na Larig, an excellent grade II Alpine style ridge in Glen Coe. The conditions were not great, lots of new powder sat on rock but we had a great day.

I'm in Scotland again now. The weather was good over the weekend and I had a fantastic day doing Ledge Route on Ben Nevis on Sunday with lots of snow and ice, blue skies and sunshine.

There is still plenty of snow about higher up even though we currently have Southerly winds raising temperatures. The current thaw should refreeze over the next few days and bring excellent climbing on good neve.

Out on the Ben for the next few days.

Rob

Winter in Scotland

First off I apologise for the gap in updating my Blog. For some reason I have not been able to access it for the last 2 weeks.

I have been up in Scotland. The first week was spent with Graham and Sue on 7 days of winter skills training.

When we first arrived the snow was confined to Westerly aspects above about 900m. The photo is taken on Aonach Nid getting used to ice axe and crampons in the sun shine.

We had a mixture of weather, from blue skies and sunshine to heavy rain and wind. Generally the weather was wet and warm and a lot of the snow and ice was stripped off the mountains.

I have then enjoyed 5 days of climbing with friends. The temperatures dropped and the sun came out to play and although we did not have any real snowfall we had a great week of perfect snow ice and neve. The photo on the right shows us frontpointing up Boomerang Gully on Stob Corie Nan Lochain. The highlight of the week was Tower Ridge on Wednesday with perfect views. The lack of snow meant that it felt hard for the grade but we had an awesome day.