Winter Mountaineering in Snowdonia

I have been out with Simon today who is looking to join my trainee instructor mentor scheme. We headed into the mountains with an open mind and enough kit to cope with winter conditions if we found them as it all looked a bit bare from the road. Idwal stream is frozen but obviously not thick enough for climbing yet and ice is starting to form on the crags up high in the Devils Kitchen. We made our way up into Cwm Cneifion, making good time as the lack of snow combined with the frozen ground makes for quick easy progress. As we made our way up the Cwm we came across some impressive ice formations where a small waterfall had been blowing back upwards and freezing as it hit the ground, I had never seen ice like it before - very cool! The snow started in patches below Clogwyn Du and we enjoyed cramponing up some firm neve and into the base of Hidden Gully (I/II). We climbed this which gave some good sport and made our way to the top of Easy Gully (I) which we descended and then re-climbed just for fun! We then made our way down the Gribin Ridge to give a bit of scrambling fun in descent. 

Come and play in Norway

I have got 3 spaces remaining on my snowshoe trip to Norway in February. This is an exciting journey expedition to the largest mountain plateau in Europe. You will enjoy a snow shoe journey across frozen lakes, through snow laden forests and on the largest mountain plateau in Europe in this Arctic wilderness supported by a dog sledge team. Over the week you will practise winter travel skills, winter navigation, have the opportunity to ride with the dogs and spend a night in a snow hole (this is not compulsory!) You will be a part of a small team and take a share in the navigation and route finding as well as helping prepare an overnight Arctic camp and help the local Musher with the dog team.


You need to be able to function in the cold. Ideal preparation for the trip is a Scottish winter skills course or an Alpine snowshoe course but these are not essential if you have the right mental attitude. Winter skills will be revised and full training on snow shoes given as part of the trip. 


For further details visit: http://www.expeditionguide.com/norway.htm 

Navigation on the Carneddau

For the second day of our navigation and hill skills course we based ourselves on the Northern end of the Carneddau. We looked at macro navigation skills and also practised some of the micro nav skills that we had been learning yesterday in the wind and rain! It has been dry and bright today with a very fresh NW wind and some very light snow showers.

I have had about 15 emails over the last two days asking me if there will be winter climbing in Snowdonia this weekend. I generally only report the conditions that I find so that you the reader can make an informed decision as to where to go, I try to avoid naming specific objectives as that causes bottlenecks and also puts a weight of responsibility on my shoulders! The turf was properly frozen above 700m today and there is still some snow in the high Cwms. (Very small amounts that would need to be sought out) The forecast suggests some light snow showers over night so I think there will be some mixed climbing to be had tomorrow. You will need to find routes that are not too reliant on turf, that are high up and it will need to snow overnight. They do exist! Where am I going? On a steam train ride to see Father Christmas with my kids! 

Cor blimey, what a day!

I have been running the first day of a navigation and hill skills course today. The forecast was horrendous and the weather lived up to all of the predictions. The temperature was 12 degrees in the valley this morning, we had winds in excess of 70mph in the valley, waterfalls blowing uphill and heavy, heavy rain. After slightly longer in the cafe than normal we headed to Cwmfinnon and looked at some micro navigation skills. The wind was just too strong though so we dropped down to the car and visited the Rescue Base to look at emergency procedures and rescues. After an hour the skies brightened so we finished the day doing some more micro nav in the Llanberis Pass, the wind dried us out nicely!

I was surprised to see that some of the snow has remained in the high North facing cwms such as Cwm Glas, Cwm Lloer and Cwm Cneifion. This will freeze overnight as the temperature is already plummeting and is forecast to drop below freezing. This could give a good base to the main gully lines but will totally depend on what snow comes in tomorrow. The forecasts suggest light showers becoming heavier as the day progresses and temperatures of -2 at 900m which could be good. We shall see!

Cneifion Arete

I have been out with Rosie again today and in an ideal world we wanted to play in the snow again as we did yesterday. Unfortunately the snow line has risen over night with a slight rise in temperatures and we also had 65mph winds to contend with today so had to strike a fine line between height for the snow and getting pinned down by the winds. We decided to head for Cwm Cneifion to get some shelter and some height. The whole Cwm has stripped back which is a shame as there is some ice starting to form on the Tower Slabs area. Nevertheless we climbed the Cneifion Arete as a summer scramble (carrying winter kit which must at least be good training!?) and had fun battling the winds. What a difference a day makes!

With tomorrows forecast heavy rain and higher temperatures I think we will be back to square one on Friday. More snow is then forecast so the weekend could be similar to the first couple of days of this week. It summarises the Welsh winter climbing scene to me, you have to be opportunistic and get out and have a look even if its looking unlikely from the valley floor. You definitely won't get anything done by staying in the cafe!

Clogwyn Du

Crib Goch in the snow

I have been out with Jude and Rosie today who have both been out with me before and fancied some private guiding in the snow. We headed up over Crib Goch (1) and had a brilliant day in some challenging snow conditions. The snow line has risen slightly since yesterday and this slight rise in temperature meant that low down the snow was quite soft and the ice was breaking easily away from the rock. As we gained height though conditions improved so that on the ridge itself we had some nice sections of harder snow. Generally though there was ankle deep graupel interspersed with sections of wind scoured snow and ice which all combined to make the route good value for the grade and meant that we had the rope on for most of it. It snowed all day with some beautiful big flakes at times and our tracks were soon being filled in behind us, a superb day in the mountains.

Its winter then!

I have been out with regular client and friend Mark today for a day of private guiding in the snow. We headed up the North Ridge of Tryfan (II) which gave a brilliant day out in the current conditions. We have had a reasonable dump of snow overnight and it has been snowing on and off all day down to about 500m. As we reached about 700m we hit the freezing level and where the route had been wind scoured it was quite icy. The turf was frozen above about 800m and we wore crampons for the upper third of the route. These are typical early season conditions the best sport is to be had on the ridge lines, the iced up cracks and unconsolidated snow make for good fun!
My friend and fellow instructor Huw Gilbert was also out today and climbed the Clogwyn Y Person Arete (III, 4). He reports similar conditions with crampons necessary for the entire route and plenty of good hooking action. 

Skye Grounded

I was out with the Search Dogs yesterday training in the Llanberis Pass. Unfortunately Skye took a slip and has injured her leg, you can read more here. I have been climbing with Baggy this morning and then Christmas tree shopping this afternoon which combined with the snow that is falling on the mountains has meant we are all feeling Christmasy in the Johnson household!
The forecast for the week ahead is looking good with snow down to 500m for the next three days at least, I am out every day this week (and every evening) so will report back with photos each day. 

Only a dusting at the moment

I have been up the Cneifion Arete today with John & Laurence for the second day of our advanced scrambling course. Much of yesterday evenings snow had disappeared by this morning but it was a cold day with a fresh wind and so the true was freezing on the tops. As we reached the car it was sleeting again and more snow is forecast for tomorrow evening so fingers crossed for the next few days! The boys and I had a great day out, good training for winter with cold toes and hot aches! 

Snow on the mountains

I have been running an advanced scrambling course today with Laurence and John. It has been dry, bright and sunny all day but as I drove home down the Ogwen Valley it was hammering with rain, the temperature had dropped and there was a nice dusting of snow above about 800m with snow still falling. We climbed the East Ridge of Y Garn (2/3) which gave a great day out looking at the skills involved in using a rope for protection on this type of ground and some stunning views in crystal clear skies. We certainly got the timing right with the weather!