North Ridge of Tryfan

Today I have been joined by a couple of extra people and have had my good friend Alec working for me as well as Kate from the mentor scheme observing. We split up into two teams of four to go scrambling for the next two days. I was with Gavin, Julian, Mick and Brett and we went up the North Ridge of Tryfan and down the South Ridge, doing lots of coaching along the way. We also looked at some emergency ropework skills and enjoyed a nice dry day with very little wind. The pager went off as we reached the cafe for the 3rd day in a row so then I was out with the Llanberis Team again. 

Y Garn & Foel Goch

As we left Ogwen Cottage this morning it was raining heavily and the wind was rattling along the valley at a fair old pace, and we were all pleased! After a couple of days of nice weather its been great to put navigation skills into practice in some more challenging conditions. We went up onto Foel Goch first of all, picking our way up from the Hafod Scout Centre using contour interpretation. We then navigated across to Y Garn in the cloud before descending to Llyn Y Cwn, down through Twyll Du to Llyn Idwal and back to the car. We had the occasional spell of sunshine but otherwise it was pretty challenging all day which was perfect!  

Glyder Fach via the Miners Path

Today Juliette, John, Gavin, John and I went up onto Glyder Fach via the Miners Track. It was beautiful weather and we used the day to look at macro navigation skills with a spot of route planning in the cafe beforehand. We also looked at some relocation skills to learn how to solve the problem of getting lost in the mountains. Once we were onto the Glyderau we avoided the main paths for the rest of the day, concentrating on navigating off the beaten track. On the way down we were able to help a couple with a leg injury before a cup of tea back at Pen Y Pass. A lovely day. 

Navigation & Scrambling 5 day course

I have been joined by Juliette, John and Gavin for a five day navigation and scrambling course here in Wales. Today we went up into Cwm Tregallan on Snowdon and looked at micro navigation skills. It was a damp start but the sun soon came out and we had a pleasant day looking at the skills needed to be a self sufficient hill walker. Skye came out with us and enjoyed a spot of fox poo rolling which is always a joy! The colours on the mountains were beautiful with a real clarity to the light and the freshness of spring. 

AMI Workshop Staff Training

I spent yesterday at Plas Y Brenin with the other staff who work on the Association of Mountaineering Instructors trainee workshops. We spent the day with the PYB staff chatting through the MIA training and assessment program and best practice for trainees to make sure we are all upto date with the program. I then enjoyed a spot of bouldering in the beautiful sunshine before heading to the SARDA Wales AGM dinner at Pen Y Pass.

Clogwyn Y Person Arete

It has been a stunning day here in Snowdonia with crystal clear blue skies and hardly a breath of wind. What a difference a day makes! Julie, Mark and I climbed the Clogwyn Y Person Arete (3) and then nipped up Crib Y Ddysgly (1), over Garnedd Ugain and onto Snowdon to enjoy some wonderful views across the whole of Snowdonia, Anglesey and even as far as the Isle of Man. We then descended the Llanberis Path for a short while before diverting off to the North Ridge of Gyrn Las and descending that back into Cwm Glas Mawr. There were plenty of climbers enjoying the sunshine in the Pass and even a team on Main Wall. An absolutely cracking day. 

Advanced Scrambling

I have been joined by repeat clients Julie and Mark for a two day advanced scrambling course here in Snowdonia. The weather didn't quite live up to its promise of sunshine but the wind had dropped and the cloud and drizzle added to the atmosphere! We went up North West Face Route/Idwal Staircase this morning and then continued upwards on the Cneifion Arete this afternoon. The sun made an appearance as we headed down, that will serve me right for putting on sun cream this morning! 

Dodging the wind on Crib Goch

Continuing this weeks theme of avoiding the wind! I was joined for the day by Ric who did a navigation course with me last year and wanted to head over Crib Goch in preparation for a Welsh 3000 challenge he is doing in May. The winds were again at 50-60mph today on a SW and so we headed up the East Ridge of Crib Goch and descended the North Ridge. We then re-ascended to the ridge at Bwlch Goch and from there had a look at the pinnacles before dropping down to the Miners Track and heading back to Pen Y Pass. It has been a beautiful afternoon with blue skies and sunshine and the wind and sun combined will be drying the crags out nicely. 

Dodging the wind on Tryfan

It was a pretty grim forecast again today with 70mph winds and heavy rain on the cards. Rob, Mark and I headed to the East face of Tryfan to avoid the wind which worked pretty well. We started the day with a couple of pitches of climbing on Tryfan Bach (Diff) and then made our way up Bastow Buttress Variant (3) then up the crux section of the North Ridge (1) before ducking down out of the wind and descending the top of Nor Nor Gully (1). We then made our way back up towards the summit into the top of North Gully (1) which we descended, cutting right into Little Gully (1) and back down to the Heather Terrace. Lots of mileage and lots of fun! 

Advanced Scrambling

It has been pretty wet and wild here in Snowdonia today as you can see from the misty photo! I have been joined by repeat clients Mark and Rob for an advanced scrambling course and today we went into Cwm Idwal and headed up North West Face Route and onto the Idwal Staircase to give us a nice mixture of grade 2 and 3 ground. After getting blown into Cwm Cneifion and braved uphill waterfalls we headed to Bochclwyd Buttress and looked at building belays and placing wires before escaping to the cafe. 

Navigating & Scrambling

I have been out with John today who has joined my Instructor Mentor scheme. We spent the day looking at some scrambling and navigation skills to consolidate Johns existing skills and formulate a development plan to help him prepare for his ML assessment. It was a pretty wet and windy day but we enjoyed ourselves on the North side of the Glyders. Thanks for all of the great Facebook and Blog comments on the Via Ferrata - what to do next year now! 

Happy April Fools Day

Happy April Fools Day! I am out on the hill all day today so look forward to picking up comments when I get back at the end of the day, needless to say there is no Via Ferrata on Crib Goch so don't all rush out this weekend and don't wait by my car to linch me, please! 

Exciting New Via Ferrata on Snowdon

This is an April Fools post from 2011:

I have spent the last couple of weeks working hard on an exciting project that I hope will open up our mountains to a whole new marketplace. Along with a team of specialist contractors I have installed a Via Ferrata on Crib Goch, only the second purpose built Via Ferrata in the UK. The Via Ferrata is a set of iron ladders and cables that protect the steeper sections of this world famous ridge making it accessible to all (by pre-booking, see link at the foot of this page).

The new warning signs on the PYG Track

An information sign at Pen Y Pass describes prices and insurance info and how to book a guide

On the easier fixed ropes low down on the East Ridge

Approaching a ladder on the steeper fixed ropes - using a climbing rope for added protection.

(If you are reading this on Facebook you will need to click the link above to view the photos on my blog)

The route starts at the foot of the East Ridge of Crib Goch with some fixed ropes attached to the rock with eco bolts, followed shortly by steel cable and ladders on the steeper sections. Along the main ridge cables have been secured to protect the main traverse and the whole route is clearly signposted.

I also hope that the fixed anchors, cables and ladders will be of assistance to the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team as they will facilitate rescuing walkers/scramblers who have got into difficulty. We are hoping to invest in a floating walkway to be attached to the side of the ridge so that we can provide access for dogs and children.

Users will be able to clip into the fixed cables using specialist Via Ferrata lanyards, these will be available for hire at the start of the route and of course subject to a deposit payment. All users must also have their own insurance prior to taking part in the activity.

I will be offering a discount to family groups and pensioners.

If you would like to find out more about the Via Ferrata including route map, equipment hire, private guiding, stag and hen party bookings and installation tips for other routes such as Tryfan or Striding Edge then visit this link.

Scrambling & Climbing

I have been into Cwm Idwal today with Kate and her husband Ross. We headed up North West Face Route (2) with them leading and me alongside giving advice. We then tracked across the top of the Idwal Slabs and looked at how to use the rope to protect grade 2 ground in descent, including some abseiling. Once down Kate lead the first pitch of Ordinary Route (Diff) on the Slabs and organised the abseil off. A great day with no rain and some good winds to dry off the crags. 

Climbing at Tremadog

I have been out with Kate today who is on my mentor scheme and wanted to spend a couple of days climbing in the sunshine to kick start the season. Unfortunately the weather didn't play ball and we had a day of climbing in a constant drizzle at Tremadog! Nonetheless it was warm and we got a few routes done and refreshed some key skills so made the most of the day. We even managed to rescue a lamb that had got separated from its mother! 

Abseiling with prussik warning

This came to me via the British Mountain Guides newsletter and makes interesting reading:

Summary - Using a prussik loop back up on your leg loop can open the buckles which are 'cinched' tight (by pulling), now increasingly found on modern harnesses, with dangerous results.
With this in mind it makes sense to follow Petzls own guidelines on attaching the prussik to your central belay loop and extend the belay plate away from the belay loop using a cowstail in the normal way. Here is a diagram from Petzl that uses a shunt or prussik knot attached to the belay loop: 

From a British Mountain Guide: 

" Last summer on a Technical Alpinism course I taught clients how to protect an abseil with a French prusik clipped into the harness leg loop, a standard technique used almost universally. While using this later abseiling from a gendarme, one client allowed the prussik to bite    whereupon the harness leg loop opened and he was left dangling from his waist belt with the prussik jammed against his belay plate. Luckily he was nearly at the end of the abseil and other clients helped him to unweight and free himself.
Wanting to see how this had happened I tried it using his harness and the leg loop undid every time. We then tried other harnesses in the team (which were not identical but similar construction) and again this happened.
All were new harnesses which had leg loops with buckles which 'cinched' tight (by pulling) rather than being back-threaded in the old style (as the leg loop buckles on the harness I was wearing). What happens is that the karabiner of the prussik lodges at the buckle, which then opens because it is being pulled at an angle which 'cinching' buckles won't take, i.e. a force from behind the buckle. This is much easier to demonstrate than to explain!
So many modern harnesses now use 'cinching' buckles on the leg loops, or are in the “Bod” style, that we may have to revert to the method of protecting an abseil with a prussik by clipping the prussik into the belay loop of the harness (usually with a quickdraw or cow’s tail to extend either the prussik or the belay plate), I have always thought this was a safer method anyway, but a bit less convenient and involving more gear.
What worries me is the number of people out there who have been taught to abseil with a French prussik clipped into leg loops with 'cinching' buckles - a lot of people I suspect."


The technique described has always worked well in the past as harness leg loops have been the double back type. In light of this experience it makes sense to review what we are doing! 

The Longer Evenings

Its great when the clocks go forward and we all gain an extra hour of daylight in the evenings, summer must be on the way. I went cragging in the slate quarries last night with friend Paul from the Rescue Team and have the spent today preparing for an exciting project that hope will open up the mountains to a much wider range of people than currently enjoy them here in Snowdonia. I shall report more at the end of the week! 

Dream of White Horses, Gogarth

I was out with Jim from my mentor scheme today and we kicked off the rock climbing season in style by heading to Gogarth and climbing Dream of White Horses (HVS 5a, 5a, 4c). It has been another stunningly beautiful day, feeling more like June than March in the sunshine. Jim climbed well, the route is fairly intimidating as a second because of some big traverses so had a big smile at the top, well done mate! We had the whole of Wen Zawn to ourselves, apart from a couple of friendly seals that popped by to say hello and give us a wave. It was nice to be out on warm rock in the sunshine, a cracking day as you can see from the photos. 

Search Dog Training

I have been out with SARDA Wales for the last two days training Skye. It has been beautiful weather here in Wales, get out and enjoy the sunshine! 

SPA Training

Today was the second day of the SPA training course that I am working on this week for Blue Peris Mountain Centre. It has been another stunning day here in Snowdonia and a joy to be out on the crags in the sunshine.