Milestone Buttress

We were lucky enough to enjoy a day of fine sunshine in the Ogwen Valley today on the Milestone Buttress. Mike & Joe each lead alternate pitches on Rhowan Route and Pulpit Route in good style with me alongside. They have both done really well this week and I wish them both the best in their future lead climbing. Over the course of 5 days they have gone from occasional indoor climbers to leading their own multi pitch routes and managing abseil descents off again. Good stuff!

North West Face Route, Cwm Idwal

Yesterday was a very wet and windy day with 50mph winds on the summits and heavy rain showers all day - not an ideal day for climbing! The boys and I decided that a grade 2 scramble would be a better idea allowing us to wear big boots and waterproofs. Mike & Joe lead North West Face route with me alongside and then organised an abseil off before a blast up Seniors Gully and down the Gribin Ridge. As soon as I got down the pager went off and we were called to help a couple that had not read the weather forecast and were stuck on Crib Goch! The knees are slightly tired this morning!

Lighthouse Arete, Gogarth

Well Mike, Joe and I decided we fancied an adventure day of multi pitch climbing today so left the rain and low cloud of the mountains for the sunshine and warm rock of Anglesey. Well sort of! It was overcast and very windy when we arrived with the lighthouse flashing away nicely. I abseiled down and I could not help but notice that the usual belay ledge was very wet when boom I was drenched from head to foot in a massive wave! I decided we would skip the first pitch then and climb the top 3! We topped out as the rain set in and the lighthouse started up its foghorn with big grins all round. Lunch in the cafe was followed by a session at the climbing wall where the boys learnt to lead and each ticked 5c and had a spot of movement coaching. A great day out!

2010 Brochure Out Now

Our new 48 page full colour brochure is now available for courses in 2010! If you have not received your copy yet then click here, fill out your details and we will pop one out in the post!

5 day learn to lead rock climbing course

I have been joined for the week by returning client Mike and Joe for a 5 day learn to lead rock climbing course here in Snowdonia. Today we headed up the Idwal Slabs and progressively looked at the many skills involved in multi pitch climbing and abseil descents. It was dry bright and sunny and a very pleasant day. I bumped into a couple of friends from Spain who were over here enjoying the cooler weather!

Family Rock Climbing Course

I have been with the Jones family this weekend for a family course. Yesterday in very wet and windy weather we headed into Cwm Tregallan on the back of Snowdon to spend a day looking at mountain navigation skills. The weather was ideal for that but not a lot else!! Today it has been dry and bright and we have been climbing at Holyhead Mountain on Anglesey. We climbed Black Owen, Slab Direct, Tension and Stairs. Skye came along both days to keep us company!

Cneifion Arete

Keith, Louise and I had a racing start on the Cneifion Arete today. The day started bright but rapidly deteriorated as forecast and we topped out as the wind and rain really hit. The weather meant I was then busy on Snowdon with the rescue team! Thanks to louise and Keith fir a great couple of days.

SARDA on the One Show

SARDA Wales were on the BBC One Show at 7:00pm this evening - I have embedded it here in case you missed it:

Clogwyn Y Person Arete

I have been joined for two days by Louise and Keith for an advanced scrambling course. Today we have had a great day, not too hot and dry and sunny all day. We made the most of the weather and headed up the Clogwyn Y Person Arete, across Crib Y Ddysgl and down its North ridge. A great day out in the mountains. Last nights daily rescue was for two missing people on Snowdon but thankfully they turned up safe and sound.

Advanced Scrambling with Jim

I have been out with Jim today who has recently joined my mentor scheme. The original plan was to have a day of climbing but the weather changed our plans as the rain drummed off the cafe window this morning! We decided to go scrambling instead and did the Cneifion Arete and then some navigation practice. We did have a temporary bright spell but otherwise it was overcast all day.

Crib Goch - Twice in one day!

I took Gez, Andrew & Shae up onto the Crib Goch pinnacles today via Cwm Glas and Bwlch Coch and then back along the ridge to Garnedd Ugain and down the North Ridge. It has been a cracking day with blue skies and sunshine - a real contrast to yesterday! Last night the pager went off just before 9:00pm and we were called out to help two people stuck on Crib Goch. We climbed up and roped them back down which meant we were not down until past midnight. To top it off I found an unconscious male lying in the road on the way home and had to give first aid and call an ambulance for him when all I wanted to do was sleep! Dog training tonight and then sleep!

Intro to scrambling course

It has been a very wet day here in Snowdonia. I have taken Andrew, Shae and Gez onto Tryfan, accompanied by Kurtis. We headed up Little and North Gullies to avoid forecast SW gusts and looked at movement skills, route finding, dynamic risk assessments and on the way down some emergency ropework. We all had a very enjoyable day despite a lack of sunshine and the kit should dry out tomorrow!

Film work for Mens Fitness Magazine

I have been working for Mens Fitness Magazine today filming a promotional advert for Timberland clothing. I met up with their actor and film crew this morning and took them on a scrambling day on the Carneddau. The film shows me taking actor Nick for a day out involving grade 1 and grade 2 scrambling, talking about what scrambling means and providing some instruction in movement, safety, ropes etc. I employed Bryn for the day to look after the film crew on the steep ground and they were very pleased with the end results. I kept getting told off for smiling too much so worked hard at looking like a rugged mountaineer - I am not sure I pulled it off but see what you think from the photos!

Navigation & Hill Skills Course

I have been joined for the weekend by Ian, Pete & Caroline for a 2 day navigation and hill skills course. We have been ably assisted for the day by Jim who is on my Mentor Scheme for trainee instructors. We headed up the Watkin Path into Cwm Tregallan on Snowdon and during the day looked at:

-Introduction to different map scales
- How to set the map
- How to interpret contours
- How to interpret key symbols ie how to find a footpath, fence, stream etc
- How to plan and follow a route using paths and other key features
- How to plan and follow a route across featureless terrain
- How to estimate distance using pacing and timing
- How to navigate in poor or limited visibility
- How to use the compass
- How to re-orientate yourself if you do get lost

It has been dry and bright all day.

Family Rock Climbing Course

The Galvin family and I headed to Upper Tier Tremadog today for their final day of single pitch rock climbing. It was a lovely sunny day and they were great company - even managing to climb E1 by the end of the day! This evening I was out on a couple of rescues on Snowdon.

Family Rock Climbing Course

I have been joined for the first 3 days of this week by the Galvin family for a family rock climbing course. Yesterday Bryn took them to Lion Rock at Llanberis whilst today I took them over to Anglesey where we avoided the worst of the heavy rain. We have had a great day with lots of laughs and some good climbing and abseiling.

Cneifion Arete

I have been out with regular client Monica today and 3 of her family. They have all done some climbing this week and wanted an adventurous scrambling day so we went and climbed the Cneifion Arete. It stayed dry for us all day and we had a lovely day out. It was great to be back in the mountains after a week off and many thanks to all of the people that have sent messages of congratulation.

Its a boy!

For those that have been out with me recently whilst I have been regularly checking the phone - its a boy! Charlie was born last night weighing 7Ib 13. Kate & Charlie are doing great and coming home this afternoon to see his 3 older brothers! The champagne is on ice!

Rock Climbing at Tremadog

I have been joined for the day by returning clients Steve & Charlotte. We headed to Tremadog and Steve lead Boo Boo (Diff) and I lead them both up Poor Mans Peutrey (Severe). We worked on multi pitch climbing skills, problem solving and abseiling and had a lovely dry day in the sunshine. It has been a busy week for the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team with 11 callouts since Saturday including a big search.

SARDA Weekend & Helicopter Training

I have been with SARDA Wales this weekend on a training weekend. Yesterday was spent on Anglesey whilst today we were in the Llanberis Pass. We were joined today by the BBC who made a short piece for "The One Show" so keep your eyes peeled over the next few weeks. The video tells the story.

Gogarth

Paul and I headed to Gogarth today to avoid the rain that was falling over the mountains. This morning we climbed Britamartis which is a great 2 pitch HVS at Wen Zawn. The route is steep but on big juggy holds straight up from the sea with an exciting hanging belay at the halfway point. This afternoon we dodged showers and climbed King Bee Crack at Holyhead Mountain which is a viscous route at HVS 5a, steep and thuggy and slightly damp!

Climbing at Tremadog

Paul and I headed to Tremadog today for a day of climbing in the sunshine. We had a great day and ticked off One Step in the Clouds (VS 4b, 4c, 4a), The Fang (HVS 5a, 5a) and Striptease (VS 5a) including a couple of big abseil descents. It stayed warm and dry all day and midge free! 

Clogwyn Y Person Arete & North Ridge of Crib Goch

Today we were shower dodging so decided on a mountaineering day. We headed up the Clogwyn Y Person Arete, a great grade 3 scramble, along Crib Goch and the down the North Ridge. We had one heavy downpour but otherwise fine views and a lovely crisp light. 

Rock Climbing at Gogarth

I have been joined for the week by Paul who is a regular client and friend for a week of rock climbing and mountaineering here in Snowdonia. We decided on a cragging day today and in search of the sunshine escaped the rain in the mountains by heading to Anglesey. We climbed Lighthouse Arete (Vs 4a, 4c, 4a) at Gogarth this morning and then dodged showers at Holyhead Mountain to climb Black & Tan (VS4c) and Tension (VS 4b) before the rain really set in. My eldest son Josh is working at Plas y Brenin all week - on work experience! He had a great day climbing this morning and canoeing this afternoon with the very friendly staff at the National Mountain Centre. 

Rock Climbing at Gogarth

Kurtis and I spent the morning with our heads in our computer screens this morning! I have put together a new website for him for his navigation courses in the Lake District - you can have a look here. Kurtis is on my mentor scheme and is working towards his MIA training. Having done the boring stuff we then headed to Gogarth and climbed Lighthouse Arete (VS 4c) in 3 pitches. It was a glorious afternoon and we even saw the resident seal. 

Lliwedd - West Peak via Bilberry Terrace

I am running an advanced scrambling course today and tomorrow here in Snowdonia. Unfortunately 1 client had to cancel this morning leaving Kurtis (as some of you may recognise from my Mentor scheme) to benefit from 1:1 instruction for the duration. (Perhaps I am flattering myself by calling it a benefit, poor Kurtis had no one but me to talk to all day!) We decided that we could afford ourselves the luxury of a long route and chose Bilberry Terrace on Lliwedd. It is described in the scrambling guide as the best of the most difficult scrambles and is graded 3 with 3 stars. It was a great route in fine architecture but with a slightly loose top section. It finished on the very summit of the mountain though and we had fine views all day.

Rock Climbing & Scrambling with Bill

I was joined for the last two days by regular client Bill who made the trip from Scarborough for a couple of days of rock climbing here in Snowdonia. Yesterday the weather had other ideas so we had a great day out doing some grade 2 scrambling, sharing the leading in Cwm Idwal. Today we headed to Anglesey leaving the rain behind over the mountains and enjoying a day of climbing in the sunshine. We climbed a variety of routes from V Diff to Hard Severe and it was great to see Bill again.

AMI Workshop - Improvised Rescue Day

The MIA trainees and I headed to Anglesey today to practice improvised multi pitch crag rescues in the sunshine. It was a real contrast to yesterday with bright sunny skies all day. We practiced a wide range of problems that got ever more complex as the day progressed with some great acting skills along the way! 

AMI Workshop for MIA Trainees

I have been working with a group of 5 trainee instructors today who are preparing for there MIA assessments. The workshop weekend is run by the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) and I have been working for them. Today the trainees wanted to look at short roping, looking after clients on grade 2 and 3 scrambles. We headed into Cwm Idwal and looked at ascents, traverses and descents on grade 2 ground in continual lashing rain! Nevertheless a great day was had with a good deal of information exchange taking place all round. 

The wheelie big rescue on Snowdon

Tonight we have bin out on a wheelie important but rubbish job on Snowdon. The Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team were asked to recover a Wheelie bin that had wheeled itself off the summit of Snowdon from the new cafe and ended up several hundred feet below at the bottom of a very steep cliff! We walked up, carried the bin to the railway and had great fun recreating the exploits of Joe Brown and chums sliding down the railway on slates, only for us it was in a wheelie bin! Thats not a claim everyone can make! 

Rock Climbing & Scrambling

I have spent the last two days with Steve & Charlotte who booked me for some private guiding  to do some rock climbing and  some advanced scrambling. We spent the day yesterday at Anglesey in beautiful sunshine and a fresh Easterly wind. We climbed Stairs (S) and New Boots and Panties (S 4a) in two pitches each looking at multi pitch climbing skills. We also did some multi pitch abseiling and spent our time looking at the skills needed for them both to lead for themselves. Today we headed into Cwm Cneifion and climbed the Cneifion Arete with Steve & Charlotte leading whilst I was alongside offer tips and advice. A lovely couple of days culminating in two self sufficient mountaineers. 

Craig Cwm Trwsgl

I teamed up with friend Andy today for a days cragging. Neither of us had been into Cwm Pennant before so headed over there. The crag is fairly isolated at the head of the Cwm Pennant valley with nice views of the South side of Snowdon and the Nantle Ridge. We climbed The Exterminating Angel (E3 5c, 5b) and Efnisien (E1 5b). The crag offers superb solid rock and great slab climbing and we even found a mountain pool to have a swim in on the way home - much to my dogs delight! 

Thanks to Andy for the photos show that show me working hard to second the crux 5c pitch and Skye enjoying the belay with Andy whilst I climb Efnisien!