Amphitheatre Buttress

Brett and I decided that a long mountain route would be the order of the day today, so why not do one of the longest? We headed into Amphitheatre Buttress (V Diff) which gives almost a 1000ft of climbing in a beautiful setting on the Carneddau. There were a few other climbers about and we had some stunning views across the whole of the National Park. 

Stunning day on the sea cliffs

I have been on the sea cliffs at Castell Helen on Anglesey today with regular client and friend Brett. It has been a stunning day which has made a two day hit from Belfast worthwhile for Brett. We climbed Lighthouse Arete (Vs 4c) in four pitches and then Rap (Vs 4c) in two pitches, basking in the sun, watching the sea birds and the fishing boats and enjoying the whole cliff to ourselves. We even made it back to Llanrwst in time for Brett to collect his car from the garage after an incident on the way here yesterday! 

Lead Climbing Refresher

I have been out with Lesley and Gavin today for a day of private guiding. They have both been out with me previously and joined me today for a lead climbing refresher. We headed to Holyhead Mountain and climbed a variety of routes at Severe grade with me alongside on a rope and them leading alternate pitches. It stayed dry all day with the rain only arriving as we headed to the cafe - perfect! 

Tremadog and Nant Gwynant

For our final day of climbing together this week Martin Gez and I went to Tremadog this morning to avoid the drizzle that was hanging over the mountains. The drive paid off and we enjoyed dry rock and sunshine as we climbed Christmas Curry with the Micah Eliminate Finish (HS). We then headed to Nant Gwynant at the request of Gez who had read about Lockwoods Chimney and fancied a fight! (He cunningly handed the lead over to Martin!) This Diff chimney is always a grunt and today was no different with a couple of pitches of caving in a vertical arena followed by a great 50m free hanging abseil. We finished the day off with a bouldering session at the RAC boulders in the evening sunshine. 

Climbing at Holyhead Mountain

Martin, Gez and I went back to Anglesey today to make the most of the warm sunshine to be found outside of the mountains. We spent the day climbing at Holyhead Mountain to push the boys grade whilst leading for themselves. The boys lead New Boots and Panties (S), Mrs Murdoch (S), Stairs (S) and then I took them up Teaser (VS 4c). We also looked at problem solving techniques, stance management and threw in some top tips along the way. Another great day out with no rain and warm sunshine on our backs. 

Atmospheric climbing

The day started off atmospherically at Castell Helen with a good sea mist and a strong breeze making the abseil into Lighthouse Arete (Vs 4c) a little more exciting than normal. I have been joined by regular clients and friends Martin and Gez and the roar of the sea was accompanied by the crying of the birds and moaning of the Lighthouse but the skies gradually cleared to give a beautiful day. We headed to Rhoscolyn this afternoon and climbed Truant (VS 4c), again with the waves crashing at our feet and a stunning blue sky. A lovely day.  

Mountain Rescue Training

I have been on a course with North Wales Police all weekend looking at dealing with fatal incidents in a Mountain Rescue context. The course was very useful and interesting and combined team members from several Rescue Teams with serving Police Officers, Coastguard, the Fire Brigade and the Coroners Office. I hope not to need the skills soon! 

Advanced Scrambling

I have been joined by repeat client Danny today for a day of scrambling on grade 2 and 3 ground. The weather has been pretty grim with continual rain and high winds but we still had a good day and climbed North West Face Route and the Cneifion Arête giving a nice progression through the grades. No photos I'm sorry, I didn't want to drown the camera!


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Clogwyn Y Person Arete & Crib Goch

Dave, Mark and I have been up the Clogwyn Y Person Arete today. We were expecting some heavy rain but actually enjoyed a dry day with some nice sunshine. The boys took over the sharp end of the rope and lead the upper section and we then headed across Crib Goch and down its North Ridge to complete a great day out. 

Advanced Scrambling

I have been joined for two days by Dave & Mark for an advanced scrambling course. Today the boys wanted to get on some grade 2 ground to see what the grade was like and to look at some ropework for looking after less experienced seconds on grade 1 ground. We climbed North West Face Route (2) in Cwm Idwal and then cut across the top of the Idwal Slabs to gain the bottom of Seniors Gully (1) via a short abseil. We then used the gully to look at use of the rope alone to protect the second. It was a little bit drizzly this morning but generally pretty good. A nice day! 

Climbing by the sea in the sunshine - again!

It has been another stunning day here in Snowdonia. This morning Will, Paul and I headed to Rhoscolyn where we climbed Truant (Vs 4c) which is a great non-tidal sea cliff route in the sunshine. We then headed to Castell Helen and climbed Lighthouse Arete (Vs 4c) in 3 pitches. I will let the photos say the rest! 

Climbing in the sunshine

I have been joined for a couple of days by friends and regular clients Will and Paul for a Rock Improvers Course. It has been a lovely day and we have made the most of the sunshine climbing by the sea on Anglesey. We went to Holyhead Mountain and Paul lead New Boots & Panties (S), Teaser (VS 4c) and Bruvvers (HVS 5a). The latter was Pauls first HVS and he did really well, climbing smoothly and in control the whole time. On each route we worked on refreshing skills for Will who has previously lead V Diff with me. Will then lead Black Owen (V Diff) after a couple of years away from climbing which was brilliant. A really nice day with great company and lovely weather - perfect!  

Helicopter Training with the Dogs at RAF Valley

I have had a great weekend with SARDA Wales at RAF Valley for our annual helicopter training with the dogs. I have put some photos and details of what we got upto on Skyes Dog Blog for those that are interested. 

ML Ropework Day

I have been working for Blue Peris Mountain Centre today on a Mountain Leader training course. Today was focused on the emergency use of the rope and we based ourselves in Cwm Idwal. It has been largely dry and bright with just the odd shower. 

The Foxes Path, Clogwyn Y Person Arete and Crib Goch

Will and I parked at Pen Y Pass this morning and took the Foxes Path round into Cwm Glas. We then climbed the Clogwyn Y Person Arete (3) before heading along Crib Goch in a light snow shower! No strange encounters today after yesterday but I was back up on Snowdon by tea time with the Llanberis Team.