Friday, September 28, 2012

More inspiration

Here is a brilliant film from two friends of mine who headed out to Alaska this summer. (Those of you who came to Nepal with me in 2010 will recognise Andy as we hooked up with him at high camp.)

Dolmen Ridge

Paul took Jo up Dolmen Ridge (3) for the final day of the advanced scrambling course whilst Andy had a rest day with his wife Michelle. Thanks again for the photos Paul. 

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Crib Goch

I have been having trouble with a foot injury this week so friend Paul has come to the rescue and taken the scrambling team out for me today. They headed over Crib Goch on the first dry day we have had for a while. Well done folks and thanks to Paul for the photos. 

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Gribin Ridge

We have headed up onto the Gribin Ridge today on the Glyderau. It brightened up this afternoon to give some lovely views and a nice chance to walk without full waterproofs! 

Local Inspiration

This is the promo for a forthcoming film on Eric Jones. One of my favourite British climbers he was the first Brit to solo the North Face of the Eiger, has climbed routes like the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru, North Face of the Matterhorn, was part of the first team to hot air balloon over Everest, has skydived over the North Pole and took up base jumping in his 50's! Whats more he lives in Tremadog. 

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

A very wet Tryfan

For the second day of scrambling we sought shelter from the gale force Westerly winds by heading for the East Face of Tryfan. The plan worked well but it was still incredibly wet! Nonetheless it was good conditions for getting footwork dialled and we summited via Little & North Gullies. 

Monday, September 24, 2012

Scrambling in Cwm Idwal

I have been joined by Anne, Andy and repeat clients John and Peter for a 5 day scrambling course here in Snowdonia. It has been pretty moist and so today we headed into Cwm Idwal to escape the forecast high winds (which did not materialise) and had a day on grade 1 ground up and around the Idwal Slabs. We concentrated on movement skills and used the wet ground to our advantage to set us up for the rest of the week. 

Friday, September 21, 2012

Beasting the arms

For the final day of our week of climbing we avoided the rain by heading to the Beacon climbing wall where we worked on some technique, beasted the arms and looked at some technical rope skills. Its been a great week with a wide variety of climbing - thanks boys! 

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Milestone Buttress

It has been a little damp in Snowdonia today. The boys and I headed to Milestone Buttress where the rain didn't stop play and they lead a couple of pitches each on Rowan Route. We also looked at an abseil retreat which ended in the cafe reviewing the last couple of days whilst our feet dried out!

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Climbing by the sea

John, Ryan and I have been to Anglesey today where we enjoyed some lovely sunshine and crisp clear air giving views to Ireland, the Isle of Man and of course the mountains of Snowdonia. We kicked off with Lighthouse Arete Direct (Vs 4c, 4c, 4a) before heading to Holyhead Mountain where the boys lead Stairs (S 4a) in two pitches with me alongside. This gave them a great first lead route and they climbed it well - a great day out. Apologies for the poor photos - I forgot my camera and had to use my phone! 

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Climbing in the Pass

For the second day of our climbing course we climbed Crackstone Rib (S 4a) in the Llanberis Pass this morning and then headed to the slate quarries for some sport climbing this afternoon. We escaped the rain, having only 1 brief shower, and enjoyed a great variety of climbing in a day. 

Monday, September 17, 2012

Climbing at Tremadog

I have been joined by repeat clients John and Ryan for a 5 day learn to lead climbing course here in Snowdonia. For our first day of climbing we headed to Tremadog and had a lovely day of sunshine. We climbed Poor Mans Peutrey (S 4a) in 5 pitches and then Scratch (VS 4b) in 3 pitches. Along the way we were progressing the boys climbing and technical skills and did a multi pitch abseil off the crag. 

Friday, September 14, 2012

Scrambling on Tryfan

Colin, John and I have spent the day on the East Face and North Ridge of Tryfan. We used a combination of routes to get the boys leading for themselves on grade 2 ground in ascent and descent, including a spot of abseiling. It stayed dry all day and we had a great day out.  

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Scrambling in Cwm Idwal

I have been joined by repeat clients John and Colin for an advanced scrambling course here in Snowdonia. We headed up the Idwal Slabs this morning, with the boys taking over the sharp end of the rope on the upper section of NW Face route. After a descent into Seniors Gully I took over the rope again for a blast up the Cneifion Arete in some pretty strong, cobweb clearing winds! 

Monday, September 10, 2012

Climbing at Tremadog

It has been a little damp here in Snowdonia today, the run of sunshine has definitely come to an end! I have been out for the day with Simon who is on my trainee instructor mentor scheme, we wanted to go climbing and so headed to Tremadog where we managed to escape the worst of the moisture. We climbed Poor Mans Peutrey and Oberon (both Severe) with Simon looking at stance management, belays and abseil retreats. 

Sunday, September 09, 2012

Gone to the dogs

It has been a lovely weekend here in Snowdonia. Skye and I have been out with SARDA Wales who have been training all weekend in the sunshine, yesterday over by Rhyd Du and today in the Llanberis Pass. 

Friday, September 07, 2012

Cragging in the sunshine

Climbing plans for the day were amended slightly after my pager went off this morning. That meant the first route of the day was Boulder Jammed Gully, a grade 3 scramble to the side of Dinas Mot that had a stuck soloist in it. It was wet, slimy and grim and I wouldn't recommend it! The afternoon was much more pleasant, exploring some new bolted routes in the Slate quarries with Paul in the sunshine - lovely! 

Thursday, September 06, 2012

Climbing on Cloggy

Keen to make the most of the nice weather I teamed up with friend Paul today for some cragging. We headed upto Cloggy and climbed Llithrig (E1 4a, 5c, 4c, 4c, 4a) which gave a brilliant afternoon of entertainment! The crux pitch involves a pendulum which gave much hilarity and as we gained height the sun came out to shake off some of the chill that now seems to be in the air. Soon be winter!